Wednesday, October 27, 2010

los ninos.

Here are a few of our favorite kidos we get to work with on a daily basis.
Some pictures are in their homes and some at school.


Gerald's Carita Feliz!

Gerald, Gato, and 2 friends
Lupe throwing dice!
Yuel and me reading
The one and only: Christopher! This lil dude can dance like Michael Jackson and is just about the cutest thing on the face of the earth.

He adores Matt & enjoys doing his homework right here on Matt's lap.
Fatima showing off her caterpillar we made in art class.
My first graders, after art!
Rayner, an awesome 1st grader.
Rayner walking home through the barrio.
RAYNER!!!
Futbol! Dale duro! Our school is red and white.

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Navimateo's guide to Nicaragua: what to expect and what to have with you.

We've all read a traveler's guidebook, you know Lonely Planet, Moon, etc etc. But we've found that there are some things worth mentioning that have somehow not made the cut.

Here's what we think is important to know.

1. The heat: When going anywhere in Nicaragua by foot, bus, bike, or taxi, it is most pertinent to always carry a sweat rag and a hand fan. Even if you crawl at the pace of a turtle, you will still be sweating more than any Nicaraguan, before you get to your destination.

2. Opportune moments: Always have your camera on you, just in case you happen to travel down a dirt alleyway through the barrios and see some youngsters tattooing their friends as they lay across plastic lawn chairs on top of puddles, with no gloves or electric outlet in sight. Yikes......

3. On destinations: While on your daily journeys around town, to the grocery store or wherever else you had planned in mind, you will surely be yelled at from a good 1/2 a block away from any bus ayudante (helper) as if he's been waiting just for you to join their departure. He will say, "MANAGUA! MANAGUA MANAGUA MANAGUA MANAGUA." When he realizes you don't intend to go to Managua, he will change the city to "MASAYA! MASAYA?! MASAYA MASAYA MASAYA!" with hand gestures as ifyou are supposed to come running. Oh yes, well I was going to the store, but now that you mention it I think a trip out of town sounds about right.

4. The bus ayudante: When in actuality you do decide to take a bus somewhere, beware that if you have a backpack or a lighter tone of skin, all the ayudantes will try their darnest to convince you to get on their bus. They will say such things as "Don't go with him (a different bus's helper), he's crazy!" or "That bus doesn't go there!" even though you know that in fact it does. Best advice is to ignore them all together andhead to the bus with the most people on it, or the one with the engine already running.

5. On consumption: It is very hard to describe in words the sound, pervasiveness, and value of shouting out products to buy from the individuals who walk through the streets with bags of fresca (juice), pan con queso, mani (peanuts) with honey, fruit, brooms, and so much more. Trust me, if you want to sell something, this tactic works. Take for example the fact that we were simply in our kitchen, out of sight from the road, but with our front door open when we heard a loud shout of "Pina! Naranja! Pina!" Matt turns to me and says "Man it sounds like she's shouting into our house." Again we hear the shouts and then a beckoning to come to the front. Matt goes over and low and behold a lady from the street has carried her basket of goods directly up our porch to the doorstep. We went over and immediately realized YES we do need a Pina and 2 advocados (the first we have seen in the past month here, and ironically I had just proclaimed earlier that day "Man what I wouldn't give for an advocado!"). Ask and you shall recieve. Shout and they shall buy.

6. Other modes of transportation: While traveling to and from soccer practice with 20+ wild kids, it is not uncommon that instead of paying for bus fare to the soccer field, you might just jump into the back of a pickup truck, or onto the top of a pile of volcanic rock carried by a very large flatbed. In these scenarios, be quick enough to actually get in the pickup bed before the driver starts going, or you will be left one leg in, one leg out, and fear for your life if you hit a bump (Matt can tell you all about it). When getting onto the high flatbad, after you've assisted everyone else up, make sure you're quick enough to actually get yourself up, and once on top hang on to someone else near you so you don't fall off (Matt and I can also tell you).


7. On mosquitoes: Either you will be eaten alive by them everyday you are here because you're just too sweet (me) or they will not touch you whatsoever because your Matt. Rumors says it has something to do with skin color which doesn't make any sense at all seeing as how I'm way tanner than Matt. However, Matt will argue it has something to do with Hispanic blood.

8. On alcohol: For beer, you have 2 choices: Tona or Victoria. We vote Tona. For Rum, Flor de Cana is where it's at and Matt and I are learning how to make a mean Caiperina. And of course there's always Aguardiente for whenever you want to punch yourself in the gut. You always know it's a good brand of liquor when it's sold in plastic bottles. Unbreakable.

9. Street kids: Unfortunately, and on a more serious note, it is very common that street kids running around without shoes will come up to you asking for a peso and explaining how hungry they are. Sometimes they ask you directly for the chicken bone off your plate. Other times they simply want to run beside you for a moment and ask for anything you might want to gift them. At the end of each encounter, even if you haven't given them a thing, they will smile and wave goodbye. Our solution is to carry snacks on us at all times so we can at least hand out a little nurishment and talk to them for that present moment.

10. Last but not least, the environmental footprint: It's nice to look at the whole picture. At a first glance it seems like the carbon/ecological footprint here might be very large due to what we see as trash thrown everywhere, polluted water running down the streets, or the traffic smog that passes right by your face while walking down Calle Atravesada (the busiest strip of shops, pedestrians, vehicles, consumers, and producers also known as a clusterf@#!). Yet we were delighted to hear a different perspective from our Canadian friend who is an ecologist and pointed out that in reality the people here live in much humbler size houses, don't have such extravagant automobiles, don't waste nearly as much electricity, gas, or water, pile as many people as possible onto one bike, one taxi, one bus, and in general live within nature, using simpler methods and less materials.


Perhaps we'll pick this subject up again in the future. For now, this is our "getting starting in Nicaragua" advice.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

enjoying life's simple pleasures.

This weekend we decided to take it easy and stay in town, accomplishing a few tasks around our house and going with the slow Nicaraguan flow.

Friday's accomplishments consisted of sleeping in til 10:30 (the latest we've slept here). Next we set up a hammock in our kitchen/garden area which then inspired our roommate Sally to go out and buy herself one for another area in the garden. Turns out hers is waaaaaayyy better and for only 30 cordovas more (about $1.50 more). Live and learn. It still added some color and comfort to our house andwe don't mind sharing. ;) And you can never have too many hammocks.


After hammock time, we went to Junior's Gym for a salsa/merengue/bachata/cumbia/reggaeton aerobics class! WHAT A WORK OUT! Matt being the only man besides our flamboyant and awesome instructor. Turns out we need to step up our game in the booty and shoulder shaking arena. We left with shirts drenched in sweat, and a satisfied feeling in our gut.

Saturday we devoted the entire afternoon to painting an awesome semi anatomical/sacred heart with wings on our bedroom wall. We roughed it by making our own paint with pee and burnt shoe soles. Jk, we found a small amount of red and blue paint and one very large paintbrush in the back of our house which we skillfully blended to make a third color - (I'll give you one guess) - and then we took our roommate's advice to use Qtips to do the smaller, more precise areas. No wonder it took 5 hours. We were damn impressed with ourselves though and so will you be too once you check out the following photo.


Our 2nd day here we drew this guy.

Saturday night we celebrated Caroline's (a British volunteer) 21st birthday with Flor de Cana (Rum), cards, and a pinata. Matt and I could barely keep our eyes open past 11:45. Oh the days of youth, where have you gone?

The party enabled us to check out the last of the 4 volunteer houses for La Esperanza Granada and we have thus come to the consensus that ours is by far the best. I mean, not to brag, but we're the only ones with a live, beautiful garden, none of our rooms smell like pee, and our mice don't have a rat problem. Our mice also only live in the ceiling and do not come down to sleep with us or poop on our kitchen plates. They stick to pooping only on the floors.

Finally, Sunday was spent devouring a most delectable breakfast of huevos rancheros Nica style (which we assume is made with the elusive French baker's bread since everything else seems to be white bread, so basically sugar) and banana pancakes at Kathy's waffle house. Perhaps the best breakfast in town, as we have yet discovered. Later we did some yoga and then prepared art, reading, and math projects for the kidos.

4th week, here we come!







Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Laguna de a pollo. Chicken Lagoon.

So, even though Matt thought it was Lagoon of wild chickens running around everywhere, it's really called Laguna de Apoyo (with a y) which we think means supported lagoon as it is supported within the crater of a dormant volcano.
The wild chickens! Run for your life!

What a magical place.

This was my jito for the day. You see dogs everywhere begging for food here. And you see people cussing them, kicking them, or shooing them away. Occasionally you see a Pitbull or Bull Mastiff or German Shepard that actually looks well taken care of. We definitely miss the buddy and our gato loco snooks. Everyday we struggle to re-convince ourselves not to take in one of these guys as we are not permitted to have pets in our casa and also would be torn to leave them behind once we return.


The national bird of Nicaragua - guarda barranca. A sweet chavala (girl) was kind enough to run up to us and tell us it was there because she saw me taking pictures of other birds.

Papaya tree!

Post swim.

I almost thought this pregnant goat was going to charge me once it finished scratching on the fence and jumped down at a foot's distance. Then Matt pointed out it was a male. Ooops, good thing I didn't try and make goat's milk.

A local chavala playing in the pristine, perfect temperature lagoon.



Saturday, October 16, 2010

fieldtrip!

Our morning started off with some of my 1st graders sweeping their class and sidewalk with mops. Meet Ronaldo and Ana Lucia.

As we waited for the bus to arrive, the 2nd graders played on their Nicaraguan jungle gym, which includes the water tower and the flag poles.
Any request to get down or stop doing that is faced with laughter. Even though I knew due to American safety norms I should tell them not to climb up, at the same time I really wanted that photo! Needless to say they were higher, but I took the photo on the way down.

Mehling and Alejandro being cute as ever.

We discovered the reason they call them fieldtrips, is because every once in a blue moon, you actually go to a field. This time, we also climbed the hill that was by the field called Loma de Posintepe.

Two schools went: Elba Zamora (ours) and Epifania.
Yoel and Gato. Unfortunately, even though they had a brand new soccer ball to play with, we didn't have time to actually play a game.

As we hiked up, we discovered very quickly that switch backs must be an American invention as here in Nica they just climb straight up. Who was it that proved the quickest way between two points is a line? Well they took that to heart. And in the humidity and heat, you are sweating buckets by the 3rd step.
The view of Granada from the hilltop, where the kids hung out and ate their bologna and some orange weird oily spread type thing sandwiches on white bread. Matt and I refrained and enjoyed our Pb&Js. (Just in case you're wondering, we do eat these almost everyday. But we cook deliciousness for dinner).
Here's the group of 2nd graders we took (or in the absense of their teachers, Matt's class) and our helper Chilo in the front left, who I am proud to say stands 3 inches shorter than I do. :) Ja Ja Ja as they laugh in Spanish typing.



Tuesday, October 12, 2010

some things are better left to memory

Or so we say when we forget to bring our camera on a very special holiday...

Today we reluctantly got up early in order to be at school by 8 (instead of our 9:30 norm). We figured out it takes a good 20-25 minutes to walk to the bus station from our house. And that there is just as many people in the streets at 7:45 as there are at 8:45, and it's also just as hot.

But we made it to school and good thing we did because Matt was a substitute teacher again for his class, and I did my first art lesson making collages of flowers and soccer balls in mosaic style with a bunch of hyperactive 1st graders.

No, but really the amazing thing was the fiesta we were able to join in on for Dia de la Raza Indigena. October 12th is the day Nicaraguans celebrate their heritage and roots in just opposition to Colombus day, the day before. The party consisted of all the students and ourselves pouring into the preschool room, with traditional music playing on a loud boom box someone carried over from their home. Then, there were 5 female students ranging from 6 to about 14 who were chosen to depict the role of different national muses: musa del sol (muse of the sun), musa del amor (muse of love), musa de la paz (muse of peace), musa del cacao (muse of coco bean), and musa de la naturaleza (muse of nature).

The girls came into the room dressed in many different outfits, with their hair changing magnificently in each one. First they wore their muse garb, which consisted of dresses made out of a rice sacs, head dresses, and even one made with leaves. Secondly, the girls wore traditional dance dresses and each did a solo baile folklorico dance for us. Thirdly, they showed off their sports gear (soccer, baseball, and basketball). And last, the came out in their evening wear (fancy dresses) and then answered a series of questions, some including:

Name 4 traditional Nicaraguan foods: Nacatamales, Gallo Pinto, Baho... can't remember the last. Name 4 traditional Nicaraguan drinks (Chicha de maiz we tried today). Name what our traditional clothes are made from.

Then, at the end of the presentation everyone voted for the new queen of Hispanic heritage for 2010. (Reina de la hispanidad).

The whole ordeal was very beautiful and sweet. What was really impressive is that these people live so humbly, in tin shacks, and come to school in dirty clothes at times, yet today they were done up to the 9. All the moms came over and did the girls hair at school, and brought all the outfits to change them in. It just goes to show the pride they have for their culture and heritage.

Afterwards, Matt and I were really hungry so we busted out our homemade Pb&js and the pan con queso we bought on the bus on our way to school ("pan con quetho" as matt says in imitation of the ladies who yell out in their street while selling their goods. There are many ladies, and even some boys, but they all sound exactly the same so you think it's just one person). Of course just as we finished eating, they brought us out 2 huge plates of Indio Viejo (traditional food made with corn). If you've ever been in a Latin American country, you know there's no turning down an offer once it's been made. So Matt and I had very full food babies for the rest of the afternoon. But it was worth it.

Monday, October 11, 2010

los fines de semana

After surviving our first week here, the weekend provided a nice 3 day break. Basically we explored, and then explored some more.

Friday we walked all over town checking out free museums, churches, and whatever else we found around the bend. The highlight was assending the tower of La Iglesia La Merced which from atop offers pheomenal views in every direction - the Cocibolca Lake, the Zapatera Volcan, Mombacho volcan, the gardens in the middles of people's houses and restaurants, the main Cathedral and all other churches, and abeautiful sunset. (See picture in previous blog).

That night we ate comida corriente (plate of the day- chicken, rice, salad, tostones (plantain) at La Colonia and then followed that with some caiparinas (rum, lime, ice, sugar, soda water) on La Calzada, Nicaragua's main tourist drag with cafes and restaurants lining a cobblestone, pedastrian only, street.

Saturday was spent cleaning house, doing yoga, meeting our new roomate Sally from Germany, eating out, walking across town to buy groceries and walking back with our arms laden down, and in the evening we attended OctoberFest at another volunteer house.
There we learned Germans really like to play American college drinking games like Flip Cup and Proximity Beer Pong. Matt and I are actually quite glad to be in less of a party mode house, without 14 other roommates, and away from the noise of the main plaza. Evidently, the churches not only ring bells at every hour but frequently fire off canons to ward off evil spirits. We'll stick to our neighborhood dogs and birds waking us up instead.

Sunday we got up bright and early to go on a tour of "Las Isletas" with our household. The tour consisted of being in a 15 passenger boat, and looking at 40 out of the 365 teensy islands formed from volcanos in the lake. The highlights were seeing many beautiful birds, going to monkey island (enough of an island to have 4 trees growing and 5 monkeys), and conversing with our funny and charming tour guide who speaks English like a hoodrat. He taught us some Nica slang like "Ella es mi jana" ( with an ene) for "she's my boo," "tuane" for "cool", "hasta la verga" for "drunk", "me doy" for "i give up" etc.




After the tour we decided to be practical and walk across town in the heat of the day to the other supermarket for a few select items. Needless to say we got very sidetracked when we realized we had our swimming gear in our bags (from the lake we did not swim in due to the sharks that supposedly live only on the other side of the lake) and passed the Mombacho Beach Club swimming pool. So for a good 3 hours we worked on our tan and swam with some ducks. Literally.


Today was back to work. Matt works with 2nd grade and the 2nd grade teacher was not at school today (apparently this happens quite often here) so his classroom was utter chaos with kids climbing on him like he was a walking jungle gym. He got them to settle down and read some books and play memory games, all for the price of a calcomania (sticker)! I tutored 2 new kids and then prepared my art project for tomorrow's art class. Then we went to a new house in the barrio and did some more math and reading practice with Rayner 7, Maria 7, and Abagail (11).

Tomorrow is Dia de la Raza and there will be a fiesta at school at 10. Que Viva!

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

enamorandome. falling in love.

The ant problem here is outta control!!!!

View from La Merced Bell Tower
Another church

Becoming a volunteer.

Day 1 = crap. (well for me at least). Actually it was only 90% crap, because the kids I will be tutoring are the cutest ever. Why you might ask? Well let's just say the helper at my school wasn't exactly helpful, and I had to fend for myself for the most part. At least I got to ride the bus there, whereas Matt had to ride a bicycle with only 1 gear (the hardest), no brakes, 30 minutes uphill, both ways, in the mud, and cow and horse shit, almost got hit by a car, and got many stares from the barrio locos... it's a good thing he's tough and stands 2 feet taller than everyone here. I on the other hand, fit right in for once in my life (height wise)!

Day 2 = awesome and a half. Matt got transferred to my school so he could be my bodyguard there and back.... and we both fell in love with the kids, and I think they did with us (They definitely love him, but it might be all the tattoos, but they basically think he's from another planet). I tutored my little 1st graders, Matt met his 2nd graders, and then we both went to a neighborhood home after school to help with some homework.


Our after school adventure consisted of:

Leaving school, Matt with a little boy on each hand, and getting led to see the backyard "pet"monkey. Then we sat at an outdoor table (houses in the neighborhood are very poor and consist of tin roofs and walls, outdoor kitchens and bathrooms, skinny ass, scabby dogs, baby chickens everywhere, etc. oh and the monkey!) with a group of 5 or so kids to help them do some math practice. However, first the moms of the houses brought us bananas, jugo de guayaba, tortillas with cheese, tomato, onion, and chili peppers. Amazing how the humblest of people are so giving. Then the kids made us balloon effigies with our names and faces on them, and made them kiss. One of the little boys, 5 years old, impersonated Michael Jackson for the "thriller" song better than just about most. Oh yes the fancy footwork, hat grab, hip thrust, and crotch grab were all included. And basically overall, they were just hilarious, adorable, and awesome.

We can't wait to go back tomorrow!

On other subjects, it has been interesting getting acquainted with the rats, bats, and geckos in our new home. The rats like to leave us poop droppings. and try to grab wrappers through the cracks in the wall. The bats sometimes fly down and crawl along the floor. And the geckos are always chirping in the background.

Today we did laundry for the first time. We weren't exactly sure if the laundry machine was going to work.... it did. And then I came out of the room and saw 3 men in our house, with the laundry machine on it's side and I was like "oh crap, Matt, there's 3 guys in the house stealing the washing machine and all our clothes!" Haha. They were just fixing it, and they were nice enough to take our clothes out first.

And last but not least, we went to an Irish bar tonight to play "geeks who drink" volunteer version with all the Germans, etc. Among the challenging questions were:
1. What's the closest galaxy to ours?
2. How many points do you have in Rugby if you win a Tri, miss the conversion, and then get a penalty?
3. What was the name of Hans Solo ship in the original Stars War?
4. What country is Damascus in?

Our team got the Rugby one. As Ricky Bobby says, if you're not first, you're last!

Life here doesn't mooooooooove very fast.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

"hay mas tiempo que vida" - nicaraguan dicho

Weeeeee're heeeeeere!

We always wanted to be the people at the airport who have a sign held up for them with their names on it, so it was wonderful when we got here, walked out the door and met Felipe with a piece of cardboard saying "Matt & Navi."

Even more of a surprise, Matt made it through customs. Although he does get plenty of eyes on his tattoos, including a waiter last night who grabbed his own arm while making wincing sounds.

Felipe, was hella nice and a super fast driver. We didn't know such small cars could travel at the speed of light. But he did slow down significantly when he called my mom on his own cell and said "Hola Julia, Soy Mateo." Hahaha.

Our casa is called Santa Lucia and it is humble to say the least... but has some wicked pluses. Our room is a bed with the tiniest bathroom where you can poop and shower at the same time. HOWEVER, we have a kitchen that opens up into a beautiful atrium (courtyards are in the middle of just about every house and restaurant here!). Ours even has fresh basil, aloe vera, and lantana growing in it. Also our livingroom is super spacious and has cable tv (not that we need or want it) and a slow internet connection.

our bedroom wall
our bathroom (our bed is just in front of the wall at the bottom)
Kitchen
Atrium
Living room wall

Our companeras de casa are Karen 24 from the Netherlands and Ciaren 30+ from Ireland. They are both very nice and have a house rule of only talking in Spanish which is perfect for us! This means Matt has to practice rolling his Rs extra hard because there are not lots of farts (pedos), but yes lots of dogs (perros)! Although Matt might argue there are a lot of both.

We get to the grind tomorrow morning with orientation, tours of the schools, tutoring classes etc and Tuesday we will have our first day of work (volunteering)!

But until then, we've enjoyed roaming the streets, visiting the local grocery store without enough money, drinking tonas (local beer), taking pictures, seeing free concerts (last night we saw a Taiwanese Jazz band that was full of young prodigies) and being lost.

Street view
La catedral
Tona!


Asi es la vida!

xoxo- Los viajeros